Tech Support and FAQ

This information is provided by one of our suppliers of wheels and offset axles. The diagram in the information refers to their dual offset axles. Offset axles are generally designed to be run with the offset facing towards the front of the sled. However, in some applications the axle can be run with the offset facing the back of the sled. It can become confusing when you are trying to change the size of your rear wheels, as sometimes you may require a longer track, or special offset axle for certain applications. In this guide we will teach you how to make these decisions so the products you buy are compatible with the ideas you have! Forward Facing Offset For application using a forward-facing offset there is some information which must be considered. Forward facing offsets allow for a 1” – 2” increase in wheel Diameter. Wheels should be mounted in “Hole 2” for a 1” increase in wheel diameter and “Hole 3” for a 2” increase in wheel diameter. This means that you can go from a 7.1” wheel to an 8” or 9” wheel, or from an 8” wheel to a 9” or 10” wheel. (NOTE: 11” wheels are only viable in specific and custom applications). “Hole 1” is where the offset axle mounts to the windows of the rails. With a 136” track or longer a 2” offset (wheel diameter increase of 2”) is the maximum amount achievable without any further modifications. Figure 1. https://static.wixstatic.com/media/9267be_36fd7a7aaa0a47dc8a07775d32d8ae9f~mv2.png Backward Facing Offset Backward facing offset axles are commonly used for drag racing applications. This generally means using a larger rear wheel as well as a longer track. This reduces the friction coefficient of the wheel which conserves horsepower, which is lost in the transfer of energy from the drivetrain to the track. The longer track also improves the traction the track gets. Both scenarios together ultimately enhance the performance of the snowmobile for drag racing applications. ​ The problem arises when trying to determine how much extra track length the wheel utilizes, as well as how much track length the backward facing offset utilizes. The next part of this guide will explain how to determine the total track length that is used by these two different situations. ​ Firstly, we must determine what the half circumference of the wheel is. The half circumference of the wheel is the surface of the wheel which is engaged with the track which is generally half. The equations and results are displayed below for our oversized wheels. https://static.wixstatic.com/media/9267be_21c38644fa19462587888e132e62d419~mv2.png The next step in this process is to subtract the wheel size you’re currently using from the wheel size which you desire to use. The equation is shown Below. As an example, if we want to go from an 8” wheel to a 10” wheel you must subtract 12.56 from 15.70 the result of this subtraction is 3.14 inches. This means that your track must be an additional 3 inches longer. However, we must then consider how much track length is taken by the backward facing offset. ​ The distance between “Hole 3” and “Hole 1” from Figure 1 is how much the rail is being extended by (considering where the axle is in the adjustable window of the rail). That distance is 1.65” this number must be multiplied by 2 to become 3.3” the reason we multiply it by 2 is because the increase in relative rail length is equal to 2 times that in track length (because the track of the snowmobile runs in a loop around the rail meaning there is an increase in length on the top and bottom). ​ Considering 3.3” and 3.14” from our earlier example; we add those values together to get the total amount the track needs to be increased by, which is 6.44” roughly 6.5”. We find that most people looking to use their sled in drag racing applications have a 137” track and go to a 144” track while also increasing their wheels from 8” to 10”, this is because the additional 7” of track length is taken up by the backward offset and increase in wheel size. It is also important to acknowledge that the window in the rail which the axle is mounted to has roughly 1.25” of adjustability in either direction ([2.5” Rail Window]/2 = 1.25”). This means that in our example if the axle was originally mounted in the centre of the window, we would have 6.5” ± 1.25” of required track length increase, which is 5.25” ~ 7.75”. this means that increasing your track length from 137” to 144” (7” increase) is well within the acceptable range.

TAPP Primary Tuning Parts (G = grams) Allen Screws – 2.6 G Roller Bolts            - 1.5” – 5.8 G - 1.75” – 6.8 G - 2” – 7.5 G Washers – 1.2 G Heavy Race Washers – 8 G Rollers -         Size 0 (15.5 mm) – 9.9 G -         Size +1 ( 16.5 mm ) – 12.5 G -         Size +2 ( 17.5 mm ) – 15.3 G -         Size +3.5 ( 19 mm ) – 19 G Springs Blue  100 - 190lbs    Brown 120 – 200lbs Black 140 - 210lbs    Red  160 - 270lbs    Notes: Allen screws inserted into arms from outside of clutch have largest effect on earlier portion of the shift curve. Clicker bolt adjustment has largest effect on later portion of the shift curve. Adjustments must always be made equally on opposing arms. Each pair of arms can be adjusted differently. Link to complete tuning manual: https://docs.google.com/document/d/e/2PACX-1vSOWPlR8k3BQv754S8deTnk0eo4WAX9n5jQAh50Oqv-CSmRszt47alUWruK2oTpgTozNLOkLNn-Ki39/pub(https://docs.google.com/document/d/e/2PACX-1vSOWPlR8k3BQv754S8deTnk0eo4WAX9n5jQAh50Oqv-CSmRszt47alUWruK2oTpgTozNLOkLNn-Ki39/pub) https://youtu.be/hUOOTwauWgU?si=Wng3iBnfrjz8yDjz https://youtu.be/yXNQgTYrNwU?si=WBozqUwnejwg1Bo6 https://youtu.be/ljVsHYEuXZo?si=WDaysIG2h1o-Lr3W

AC 998 with stock clutches - model year 2017 - XS827 AC 998 with stock clutches - model year 2018+ - XS829 Yam 998 with stock clutches - all years - XS825 Yam 998 with TAPP primary and stock Yamaha secondary - XS825 Yam or AC 998 with TAPP primary and TAPP 11" Secondary - XS827* Yam or AC 998 with TAPP primary and 11.25"-11.5" secondary - XS811* *If you were previously using a TAPP primary with a stock Yamaha secondary and the XS825 belt and switch to the TAPP secondary, your clutch will need to be re-shimmed for the XS827 belt. Contact us for details. If you plan to use your new TAPP primary with a 11.25"-11.5" oversize secondary, it will need to be custom shimmed for the XS811 belt. Please let us know and we will shim your clutch prior to shipping.

You have options for flashing your ECU and Cluster with our performance tunes. Option 1: Send your ECU (and cluster if purchasing a cluster flash) to us for programming. Be sure to package it carefully. You may want to ensure the parcel is tracked and / or insured as we are not responsible for loss or damage of your components when they are in transit to us. Option 2: Purchase a flash communicator tool and install the flashes yourself as per the instructions below. Cluster And ECU Removal The cluster is held into the top panel of the body by some plastic clips molded into a round extrusion on its back. Remove the vent or accessory bag in front of the steering post to reach the back of the cluster. https://static.wixstatic.com/media/9267be_7ec6aff341034956a9ccd82a26936646~mv2.jpg Press on the clips to release it from the panel. https://static.wixstatic.com/media/9267be_b2107ce77f0d45c197371c8d703cfa7c~mv2.jpg The connector is held on by a locking clip on the underside. https://static.wixstatic.com/media/9267be_6fc314500b8d478e9b35acb76ebd407d~mv2.jpg Removing the ECU: https://youtu.be/uasuOWAmHyw Thread on Totally Yamaha: https://ty4stroke.com/threads/location-and-tips-for-ecu-removal.146926/ (https://ty4stroke.com/threads/location-and-tips-for-ecu-removal.146926/) OR If you have purchased or own a flash communicator: Warning: If you have equipped your sled with an AFR module, always disconnect if before flashing the cluster or the ECU to prevent failure of the flash. Download the Hurricane Flashing instructions:

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This is a table of the different functions available for flashes with single tunes and jukebox tunes (bundles) when the flasher tool is attached verses not attached (or the flasher is not purchased). https://static.wixstatic.com/media/9267be_ca7a59e6ba1b41c5a6be7ddc09eb21a5~mv2.jpg

https://video.wixstatic.com/video/9267be_c105fde470ba4f69a46f9415530d8a82/720p/mp4/file.mp4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CbnPaqs9-dE

https://youtu.be/vD1FrT-nIs0

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Our recommendations: Use stock helix angle for mountain riding 35-39 for trail riding with performance tunes 41 for drag racing with tunes up to 350 hp 40-44 for drag racing with tunes over 350 hp

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Taken from the 2019 Yamaha Technical Update Manual Dimensions are in mm. https://static.wixstatic.com/media/9267be_19526e0ca983453c839e3e1978541784~mv2.jpg

• first remove the secondary retaining bolt and aluminium plug at the end of the jackshaft as well as any washers present. • you can now set the belt deflection as desired by either manually raising the belt in secondary or driving the sled at low speed while on a track stand securely. • now loosen the jam screw locking the deflection adjuster dial on threads • screw the dial all the way out to edge of the threads where the head of the retaining bolt will be • install the Hurricane Belt Deflection Adjuster and steel washer included and secure with stock bolt • screw in dial until snug against helix and lighten the jam screw to hold it

Diagrams and specifications as listed in the Yamaha service manual with our own note added on the spec we have used. https://static.wixstatic.com/media/9267be_8d45382c046344ceb98b6c42ed9a2604~mv2.jpg

https://youtu.be/GC4mNO3Idfk https://youtu.be/0zxpRBP5H_A

https://youtu.be/-3E0BIx8Otk

https://youtu.be/FWdPk1SBals For maximum effect the stock plenum under the hood centre section that feeds the airbox should be removed along with the rubber seal. A simple blockoff plate to cover the original inlet where the seal was located should then be affixed as shown below: https://static.wixstatic.com/media/9267be_0cf93b24ebdb4b74b40f9670e5b2347c~mv2.jpg

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Detailed information is listed on our iGrip Studs page. The link is located on each iGrip product listing as well as on the home page if you click the iGrip logo. Here is our most popular version of the iGrip Screw Stud: iGrip SS-32R Snowmobile Stud https://www.wix.app/stores/4132e319-e902-4c1b-8ec9-ca641fe9db33/catalog/082c4f8b-4a5d-5f34-db9e-0725d6afb2f9?d=https://www.maxcelerationracing.com/product-page/igrip-ss-32r-snowmobile-stud https://youtu.be/vRKIn7SDL1g

All of the studs and wide body chisels listed on our site are designed for installation on 2-ply tracks ONLY! Should you wish to add traction to a single ply track please refer to our line of iGrip traction screws. The SS line in particular has yielded great results for us on taller lug single ply tracks (such as the Backcountry X). The graphics below are installation reference charts for our Snomaxx and Scorpion aluminum race chisels. If using re-purposed 5/16" studs for bases, their total height should be .875" - 1". Please refer to the diagrams below. For the ultimate lightweight combination, and to save time not cutting your old studs, consider our Titanium Base Studs listed in the Traction section of our on-line store. Also listed here is a sample installation pattern that has proven to work well for the wide chisels. It repeats every three rows. It is merely a suggestion as your best pattern will depend on the number and type of chisels you use and your particular track specifications. https://static.wixstatic.com/media/9267be_493f377b81444ab6a06d268fe05547bb~mv2.jpg https://static.wixstatic.com/media/9267be_f4329c4a986a468c820aee4e2be55eb2~mv2.jpg https://static.wixstatic.com/media/9267be_e82f9131754c4c8caee1e05191e2bbfa~mv2.jpg

You can get all the details on our Ceramic Hybrid bearings by clicking the button below: https://video.wixstatic.com/video/9267be_e2f616ee0053429a90b88ec7a95b9af7/720p/mp4/file.mp4 https://video.wixstatic.com/video/9267be_a683f8d0771a4de392905e8a3ec1a13b/720p/mp4/file.mp4

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https://youtu.be/vK6m465zqhg

Download the PDF here:

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